Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2010-2012 BK1 2.0T Manual Transmission:
Transmission Type: M6VR1
Final Gear Ratio: 3.909
Gear oil: SAE 75W/85 GL-4 2.1 US qt.
Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2013+ BK2 2.0T Manual Transmission:
Transmission Type: M6VR2
Final Gear Ratio: 3.727
Gear oil: SAE 75W/85 GL-4 2.3 US qt.
Changing Manual Transmission Oil:
Best done when the oil is warm.
Remove oil filler plug (A):
Some oil may drip out but not much will. Prepare a oil pan below the oil drain plug to catch the oil. Remove drain plug.
Once all the oil is drained reinstall the transmission oil plug with a new gasket and torque it to: 57.8 lb-ft
You may need a pump to fill the transmission with oil. Fill with Standard oil: SAE 75w-85 API GL-4.
It will take around 2.3 US qt.
When it is full it will spill out of the fill hole.
Check level with finger. Oil level must be up to fill the hole, if not, add oil until it runs over. Having the car level helps receive the most accurate full level.
Tighten the filler plug with a new gasket to 57.8 lb-ft.
Removing the Transmission:
Removing the transmission is necessary when inspecting or upgrading the clutch assembly on your Hyundai Genesis Coupe.
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Drain transmission fluid.
Remove the ground wire by removing the bolt connecting it to transmission.
Disconnect the backup lamp switch connector and the CKP Sensor (A) by removing a 10mm bolt.
Remove the clutch hose from the C.S.C assembly. This is a good opportunity to upgrade to a new clutch line!
Remove the propeller shaft from the transmission by removing the bolts (A).
Tightening Torque: 79.5 lb-ft.
You will need to use 17mm wrench for the bolts and a pry bar to push the rubber guibo back away from the transmission. Don't be shy.
Remove the base bracket (C) and select rod (D) from the transmission by removing the clips (A-2ea) and snap pin (B).
This is a good opportunity to inspect your shifter bushings in the front shifter carrier arm and replace for buttery smooth shifting!
Remove the under shield cover (A).
Support the transmission with a transmission jack, and remove the crossmember by removing the four bolts that hold it to the chassis as well as the other four nuts holding the transmission mount to the cross member.
Tightening Torque: 47 lb-ft. Bracket to Chassis
Remove the four mounting bolts on the bottom of the transmission.
Tightening Torque: 34 lb-ft.
Remove the starter motor bolts.
Tightening Torque: 39.8 lb-ft.
Remove the top transmission bolt. These may be hard to reach. Lowering the transmission a small amount allowing it to tilt back may allow for easier reach.
Tightening Torque: 34 lb-ft.
Inspect for any more bolts holding the transmission housing to the engine housing. Make sure everything not coming out with the transmission is disconnected and no wires/hoses are damaged in the removal.
Lowering the jack slowly and pulling the transmission back, remove the transmission assembly. Some shaking while pulling the transmission back may be required to free the input shaft from the clutch assembly. Do not put unnecessary weight or stress on the input shaft.
Installation Torque: 26 lb-ft
Loosen the six bolts which attach the clutch cover to the flywheel. Loosen in small increments in a star pattern to prevent damage.
Inspecting the clutch:
Check the diaphragm spring for end for wear and uneven height.
Check the pressure plate surface for wear, cracks and color changes.
Check the rivets for looseness and replace the clutch cover assembly if necessary.
On the clutch disc, check for loose rivets, uneven contact, deterioration due to seizure, adhesion of oil, or grease, and replace if defective.
Measure clutch disc thickness:
Replacing the Slave Cylinder:
Having the transmission out is the best opportunity to replace the existing C.S.C (Concentric Slave Cylinder) assembly. We recommend getting a replacement any time you have the transmission out of the car.
Remove the C.S.C assembly (B) from the transmission case by removing the three bolts (A).
Installation is the reverse of the removal.